Jan 20, 2008 - 2 min - Uploaded by expertvillageDetermine if a cylinder has a crack by looking at fluid leaks and looking for cracks on the. Results 1 - 48 of 96039. Shop from the world's largest selection and best deals for Car & Truck Cylinder Heads & Parts. Shop with confidence on eBay! It doesn't look like cylinder 4 has been having such a great time lately. Coolant has clearly been getting in, and has 'crystalised' inside the cylinder. It's not very clear in the picture, but there's a big 'blob' of coolant sitting on top of the exhaust valve (as well as the little 'poofs' of it which are clearly visible). Cylinder 4 is shiny, whilst the rest of them are lined with carbon. Every combustion chamber is cracked, and there are cracks between the intake and exhaust valves as well. There is evidence of the coolant in the exhaust manifold as well, suprisingly mostly from chamber 3. The exhaust manifold on cylinder 3 is missing quite a large piece of it's mating surface. The turbo has a big crack on the exhaust side. The intake manifold is full of oil and gunk. Hi Tumelo Yip, AMC is definitely the way to go. Prices from Gemini Parts: Bare - R5,500 excl. VAT Complete - R8,500 excl. VAT Everywhere else I've checked is more expensive. Victor Reinz gasket kit - R788.60 excl. ![]() VAT Cylinder-Head Bolts - R285 excl. VAT Not sure what else we're still going to need. Trying to decide between bare or complete head. Not sure about how to get the valves out of the old head, and concerned about it possibly being a lot of work to get the shims right. I suppose we could try HeadZone for the build-over, but it may still be worthwhile to just get the complete new head. Werner, thanks. I have some family helping out with good advice. Hi Dane Those pictures would maybe suggest that the engine is broken, I wouldn't drive it if I were you:-/ My (current) theory on why these engines crack heads is quite simple: Uneven heat distribution. The 'back' of the head (cylinder 4 side) is getting hotter than the front, in one or more modes of engine operation (idle, revving, thermostat open, thermostat closed). The thermostat only regulates the 'average' temperature of the head. So whilst it may be keeping the average temperature at 82°C, the front may be (as an example) 72°C and the back 92°C (or worse). Or the front could well be being kept at 82°C and the back is just getting hotter because it's not really getting any coolant circulation at all. From what I've read, the heads on all these engines crack at the rear (cylinders 4 or 3). It's obvious from the head-gasket that some effort has been made to direct coolant flow towards the rear of the head, by blanking off the coolant flow at the front and then having increasingly larger holes towards the back. The pump and coolant outlet holes from the head are all at the front, so this would encourage coolant flow around the front of the head. For anyone else wondering if their 1KZ-TE head is cracked, here are the symptoms we were having: - Difficulty starting. [Edit: Still having some difficulty starting, even after the cylinder-head replacement. Probably down to fuel-pump / injectors.] - Big white puff/cloud of smoke at startup. [Edit: Still getting a bit of a puff of smoke at cold start (see above).] - Coolant loss (out overflow bottle presumably, some through the engine as well). Only recently did this become bad enough that the vehicle would start overheating after around 400km of driving, due to the excessive coolant loss. - Rough idle after startup (only started happening recently). - Pressure test revealed communication between the combustion chambers and cooling system. No oil in coolant or coolant in oil (communication seems to be between exhaust outlet and cooling system). In case anybody is wondering, I'm one of those guys that bought a vehicle after the previous owner was 'clever' enough to 'quickly get rid of it' when they realised that there were head problems (without saying anything to me about it of course). The vehicle didn't have as much power as I remembered these engines having when I drove one quite a while back. I initially suspected head trouble due to coolant loss, but some guys at a radiator place managed to convince me that there was nothing wrong with the vehicle, so we drove it like that for a while still until the coolant loss became severe enough to cause the temperature gauge to begin moving. Quick tip for any other DIYers tackling this sort of job for the first time: The stud bolts on the cylinder head are really easy to remove (probably only finger tightened at original manufacture). I for some or other reason assumed that these were going to be the tightest thing on the head, but that wasn't the case at all. The studs on the intake side are obviously removed by just using two nuts and locking the one against the other. I went and bought an E8 Torx socket to remove the ones on the exhaust side, but I think that they could probably be removed in the same way as those on the intake side.:) The studs between the turbo and exhaust manifold were a different story however. E10 Torx socket, and some really good leverage, definitely needed there. I just loosened and retightened them to break up any rust, in case I need to remove the turbo at a later stage. Not that this information is really of use to anyone else, but we've decided to leave the turbo be for now as it is obvious that it has been worked on relatively recently (obviously new nut in one place, stay was not reinstalled) - so we'll clean everything up and put it back together, and then check after a few 100km for how much oil there is in the intake system (assuming everything works after we put it back together! Hi Werner I have no idea. Is there perhaps anybody more knowledgeable who can answer this? Do you think that the damage is severe enough to warrant replacement of the block? I should mention that all the cylinders have a sort of a little widening chamfer right at the top (if that makes any sense.). I'm busy cleaning out the intake manifold at the moment. Well, have been for the past two days. Insanely dirty - like 5mm of greased oil caked onto the inside of it. Any tips for cleaning from anybody?:). Regarding cleaning of caked-on grease oil, my (somewhat brilliant ) wife came up with the following (she is also responsible for the crankshaft-pulley removal mentioned previously btw): Vegetable oil. It seems counter-intuitive (to me at least) but it works brilliantly. Mix in some coarse salt as an abrasive (I think it possibly helps chemically as well) and it's even better. The thing is, water doesn't mix with oily stuff. Oil mixes with oily stuff. Makeup 101 apparently (I'm told there is something called 'pre-cleaner' for removing makeup, which is oil-based). The oil dilutes/dissolves the grease. Most of this can then actually be washed out with water, and all you're left with is a thin layer of vegetable oil - which can be cleaned off relatively easily using normal household cleaners (I'm perhaps making this sound like a little less work than it is - it's still a lot of work, but it's a *lot* easier than anything else I tried). Even if you didn't get all the vegetable oil off, I personally don't mind having a little vegetable oil on my engine parts. I don't think that it'd do any harm going into the combustion process either (make sure to clean out all salt though!). What I don't want is big chunks of horrible sticky grease-stuff going through my brand-new cylinder-head. The solution can also be used for cleaning your hands, and (if you're not wearing gloves) is also a lot nicer on your hands whilst cleaning the engine parts. Similarly, you don't have to worry about it 'eating' any plastic-ey/rubbery parts or anything. Other things which were suggested were oven-cleaner, drain-cleaner, and a bicarbonate-of-soda / vinegar mix (think volcano project ). Anybody have any other ideas? Is this perhaps a well-known technique to everybody but me? How is the cleaning done professionally? (acid?) Edit: Forgot to mention - would recommend cleaning as much gunk as possible out manually first - i.e. Fingers / screwdriver / whatever. A high-pressure (water) cleaner does not work well (initially) - it just distributes the gunk to the part of the component where it's probably most difficult to get to:). I regulary use vegetable oil to clean my hands from grease and oil if I do not have hand cleaner available. Regarding the block. It is hard to see precisely from the photos but it seems as if the pitting is also on top of the block where the metal ring of the cylinder head gasket makes contact. If that it the case then you are probably going to pick up problems as a Diesel engine has high compression. Check that area of contact very critically and make sure there is no pitting. Also regarding the pistons. If I have already gone this far I would go for the whole hog and replace everyting. Bearings, Pistons, oil pump and waterpump. I'm not sure if this engine has sleeves but would re-sleeve if that is the case. Otherwise I would have it re-bored or at least honed. The bottom line is it does present somewhat of a risk leaving it like that and simply fitting the cylinder head. Are you prepared to live with that risk and are you prepared/ have you got the time to do it all over again if it does give you problems in future? Gasket 2.JPG (106.17 KiB) Viewed 9524 times There is an indentation in the gasket around the cylinder, but I think that this is caused by the 'covering' of the gasket (no idea what it's made out of) being thicker at that point? The pitting definitely doesn't get past this 'ring'. Thank-you very much for your advice - still trying to decide what to do. The vehicle is not on a lift, so working on the block is not so easy at this moment. Seems at this point like it's maybe just better to get a completely new engine! Considering that the turbo/fuel-pump may need replacing/overhaul as well. On the topic of gaskets: We're looking at a genuine head gasket, as per Hoppy's advice. We need to decide what to do with the rest of the gaskets though. Victor Reinz cylinder-head gasket kit (incl. Head gasket, which we wouldn't use): R788.60 (excl. Genuine cylinder-head gasket kit (excl. Head gasket): R1,450.00 (excl. So the Victor Reinz gasket kit, with the head gasket, is still cheaper than the genuine gasket kit, excluding the head gasket. Would it be a better idea to get the Victor Reinz gasket kit, or is it a better idea to get the genuine gasket kit? Second-hand engine (70,000-100,000 km) from Japan Auto Trading is approximately R17K excl. Japan Auto Trading referred me to Master Conversions to do the replacement. Spoke to a very nice guy there called Vish. Says that he's replaced plenty 1KZ-TEs, and will personally go and pick out the best available engine from Japan Auto. Cost to do the replacement is approximately R4K-R6K (and some bother with changing the engine number at traffic dept.). R12K to replace the cylinder head (plus exhaust manifold) with a complete AMC unit, Toyota gaskets all-round. But, - Piston / top of sleeve pitted - Turbo probably needs to be replaced as well - Fuel pump / injectors in an unknown condition - Other engine components are also older (oil-pump, piston bearings, etc). R23K (plus traffic dept. Costs / hassles) to replace the engine with a second-hand one, 70,000km-100,000km on it. Head on this unit will probably crack in the next 100,000km-200,000km. May be able to retrieve some value by selling the old engine to a scrapyard.:-/. With diesels it's tricky in that even though they say 70 - 100k km's, as long as we do not know how it was driven, we may not be solving much. I once bought one of the low mileage engines for my TwinCam, and not even long, the head gasket went, could have been my bad luck I suppose, but once bitten twice shy. When my KZ started smoking, it was in fact the turbo that went, so said Ralph, but because I bought it second hand and never knew it's history, I spent money to overhaul it complete, that way I know the devil I'm dealing with, how and when it'll be serviced and driven, etc. Just helps with the peace of mind. I stand to be corrected as I have never done one of these engines. As long as the area where the head gasket is supposed to seal is fine then there should not be a problem. Those replacement engines are a bit of a gamble. Turbos and injectors can be replaced at a later stage without having to pull the engine. My point is simply that if I am at the same stage of the fix and funds allow for it then I rebuild everything. The peace of mind when you are out in the sticks somewhere alone makes it worth it. Thanks for the concern guys - much appreciated!!:) The pitting seems to be around the edge of the main combustion 'woof' which comes out of the combustion chamber (please see the close-up pic of 'Cylinder 4 Cleaned 1' posted on 11 March). I am still pretty convinced that it is due to the coolant getting into the cylinder - water seems to eat metal when it gets very hot. I didn't take any pictures back then to verify, but I vaguely remember seeing something similar when we blew the head-gasket on our E36 BMW M52 engine. Bear in mind that the vehicle has done at least 15,000km with an increasingly cracked head. The 'crystalised' coolant also seemed to be stuck inside the pitting. I've just done a quick search and found the following:. (Here's the link to the manufacturer's site: ). In my mind, the process would be the same chemical reaction as rusting. Since the crack in the head seems to be mostly around the cylinder 4 exhaust valve, my theory is that coolant was getting sucked into the cylinder somewhere at the end of the exhaust stroke and depositing on the top of the piston. The 'explosion' in the combustion chamber displaced most of this coolant to the edges of the piston, where it steamed up and slowly ate away at the metal. That said, I could of course be completely wrong and it could be the injector?? I am not a mechanic and my experience is limited - this is the first engine I've opened. Parts have been ordered from Gemini, so engine replacement is off the table now. Total came to about R12K (excl. VAT) for a complete AMC head, complete 'genuine' engine overhaul gasket kit (not just head gasket kit - they didn't have available), 'genuine' cylinder head gasket, and 'genuine' exhaust manifold. Will still have to make sure that everything which arrives is what was expected, when they deliver:). Engine Reassembled.JPG (66.18 KiB) Viewed 7839 times The engine took a while to start. Then it ran well for a bit, and then started to run really badly and rough and suffocating us with smoke from the exhaust. I went back to the engine repair manual and started looking through the diagnostics, but started the engine again a bit later and after a while it was purring nicely. Most likely there was just a lot of air in the fuel lines. The engine still turns over a few times before starting - I thought that it might start much quicker (on the first one or two cranks) after the replacement but that does not seem to be the case. Took the car out for a test-drive and everything seems fine. There is no noticeable increase in power - maybe just a bit stronger in the low revs. I think that power is lacking in the upper revs but this is most likely down to turbo and not really serious (in my mind at least). There is absolutely nothing (visible) coming out of the exhaust now - there was always a little bit of white smoke before. Time will tell what the situation with Cylinder 4 (pitted one) is, and also less importantly what the situation is with the turbo / injectors / fuel-pump. Thanks for all the help and support guys! I'll post anything else which may be of use to other people tackling this job a little later. (49.06 KiB) Downloaded 517 times Sundry notes: - I couldn't get the one stud bolt out of the old cylinder head (just ended up stripping it). This was luckily just a bolt for connecting an external pipe to the head so that the pipe doesn't rattle around, so it wasn't serious. I just replaced with a normal bolt. - On reassembly of the intake manifold to the cylinder head I could not get the one nut up to torque. I swopped the stud bolt and the nut for another one, with the same result. This basically means that the thread on the cylinder-head side was stripping. I don't know if the fact that I reused the stud bolts had anything to do with this, bit it's really not impressive for a brand new head so far as I am concerned! - I also could not get the one nut on the heater water inlet pipe up to torque either, same situation as the above. Once again, not very impressive for a brand new head. - I used the plastic lid from a coolant bottle (not the Toyota coolant, another kind - diameter of approximately 4cm) to replace the camshaft oil seal. In retrospect I'm not sure if it was actually necessary to replace this seal as the old one still looked pretty good, and I destroyed the old one (bent the metal part of it) whilst getting it out (which just feels like a bit of a waste). I got it out with a screwdriver and hammer - using the aforementioned lid would have been a better idea for getting it out nice and evenly. It was quite a bit of effort to get the new seal in nice and evenly and to the right 'depth'. - I reused my cylinder-head bolts, as they were still well within spec. It was really stressful though, wondering the whole time if they might strip. Especially during the final torquing where it takes both hands and a lot of effort with a (improvised) breaker bar. - The bolt-hole in the new head for the one intake-pipe mounting bolt does not match the one in the old head. I'm still going to have to try and source a new bolt for this. [Edit: Looks like this is a M10, 1.25mm thread pitch] - After installation of the timing belt, and subsequent checking of all the alignment marks by turning the engine over a few times, it was much more difficult to turn the engine over than before. - I stated previously that it was not possible to get the intake or exhaust manifolds off without removing the cylinder head. It may well be possible, with removal of (at least some of) the stud bolts. - I had a slight leak on the one injector pipe (pump side). It looks like this has been sorted by tightening it some more. I think that's all I have to contribute for now!:).
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